Caretaker's diary, Daily trips around Vršič, Slovenia, Mountain hikes around Kranjska Gora, Slovenia, Mountain pass Vršič, Slovenia
Erjavčeva koča – Slemenova špica – Sleme
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Erjavčeva koča – Slemenova špica – Sleme
Erjavčeva koča - Slemenova špica - Sleme
The Path That Begins at Erjavčeva Koča
An Autumn Story of Slemenova Špica
Morning over the Vršič Pass begins quietly. The air is crisp and cold, and the sky is that deep, pure blue you find only in the mountains. In the parking area in front of Erjavčeva Koča, everything is still; only in the distance can you hear the wind playing with the branches of the larches. It feels as if nature itself is still asleep. Over coffee on the terrace of the mountain hut, visitors, hikers, and photographers slowly awaken — they know that today promises to be one of those autumn days when Slemenova Špica turns into a magical stage of gold and light.
Erjavčeva koča - Slemenova špica - Sleme
Erjavčeva koča – Slemenova špica – Sleme
The trail toward Sleme begins just beside Erjavčeva Koča. At first, it leads through sparse spruces and pines, then gently descends, as if preparing you for a slow transition into another world. After only a few minutes of walking, you hear the familiar rustle of dry needles beneath your boots. Here, the larches are the true kings of autumn. Their crowns glow so brightly in the sunlight that you could swear they are on fire.
As you follow the path, views open toward Prisojnik, Mojstrovka, and deep into the Trenta Valley. Along the way, blueberry bushes and autumn-tinted mountain pines grow, creating a perfect contrast of colour against the blue sky. Hidden among the conifers lie remnants of old defence walls from the First World War — silent witnesses of a time when these mountains marked the border between life and survival. Few know that the path to Slemenova Špica partly follows old military supply routes, built over a century ago by soldiers supplying the positions above Vršič.
After about half an hour of walking, the forest thins out. The mists rising from the valley slowly fade, and the air grows warmer. At the edge of the plateau, the trail divides — one branch leads toward Mojstrovka, the other toward Sleme. There, for the first time, the famous view appears: in the background reigns Jalovec, with its perfectly pyramidal shape and grey, almost metallic hue, cutting sharply into the sky. It is one of the most photographed scenes in the Slovenian Alps.
Erjavčeva koča – Slemenova špica – Sleme
An Autumn Story of Slemenova Špica
As the path continues across soft grass, every step feels lighter. It’s hard to believe that the hike from Erjavčeva Koča to Sleme takes barely over an hour of easy walking. Yet every meter of the trail is full of details — the light filtering through the trees, the scent of resin, the silence broken only by the call of an alpine chough or the faint hum of a car winding up the serpentine road below.
At Sleme, the world opens up. Meadows spread beneath rocky cliffs, and rising like a natural stage above them is Slemenova Špica — a panoramic summit reaching 1,911 meters. From this grassy plateau, you can see far into the Tamar Valley, across Rateče toward Italy, and, of course, toward Jalovec, standing seemingly within arm’s reach. Many visitors sit down on the grass and simply remain silent. Nature speaks for itself.
Erjavčeva koča – Slemenova špica – Sleme
Near the summit of Slemenova Špica lies a small hollow where water collects in summer. In autumn, the reflection of golden larches and the grey silhouette of Jalovec in the background create one of the most iconic images of the Slovenian mountains. This view has adorned countless postcards and calendars. It’s no wonder that so many return again and again — each season on Sleme reveals a different face, yet autumn remains the queen of them all.
If you’re lucky, you might be accompanied by ibexes along the way. These majestic inhabitants of the high mountains often bask on the sunny slopes around Slemenova Špica, unbothered by human presence. Watching them calmly cross steep cliffs is a sight that stays with you forever.
Erjavčeva koča – Slemenova špica – Sleme
One of the biggest Instagram friendly attractions at Vršič pass
As the afternoon turns to evening, the sun begins to fade. The golden tones of the larches turn to orange, then to deep red, until the entire forest glows as if ablaze. The path back toward Erjavčeva Koča feels almost mystical at this hour. The silence deepens, the air cools, and each step slows down. It feels as though you’ve crossed into another world — one where time moves more slowly, and every breath feels like a gift.
When Erjavčeva Koča reappears, a warm refuge among the mountains, a feeling of homecoming washes over you. Inside, hot tea and the scent of soup await, along with the friendly faces of fellow hikers just finishing their day. Through the window, you see the last golden rays bidding farewell to Sleme. Everyone who walked this path today knows they’ve experienced something rare — a moment of complete harmony with nature.
Erjavčeva koča – Slemenova špica – Sleme
Erjavčeva Koča is more than just a starting point for Slemenova Špica — it’s part of the story itself, rewritten with each passing season. From its doorstep, thousands have set out toward the peaks — some for the first time, others countless times again. And all have returned richer for something priceless: peace, silence, and respect for the mountains.
Autumn in Sleme is not just a walk — it’s an experience. A story of light and stillness, of old paths and new horizons, of simplicity that fills the soul. And when, in the evening, you look out from the terrace of Erjavčeva Koča toward the dark outlines of the peaks, you can’t help but wish for just one thing — to wake up again tomorrow, embraced by those colours that only nature knows how to create.
Erjavčeva koča – Slemenova špica – Sleme
Foto by Iztok Kurnik
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